Monastery of the Virgin at Durunka

The monastery sits against the western escarpment at Durunka, built around a cave in the cliff that tradition holds sheltered the Holy Family on their return north. What makes it remarkable is the scale of its annual pilgrimage: through the first two weeks of August, leading to the feast of the Assumption, enormous numbers of Copts travel here from across Egypt, filling the terraces, the guest blocks and the ground below with tents, and the whole hillside becomes a temporary town with markets, kitchens and continuous liturgy. Estimates run into the hundreds of thousands over the fortnight. Outside that period the monastery is a quiet complex of churches and buildings stepped up the cliff, with the cave church at the top and a long view over the valley.

What you actually see

• The cave church in the cliff - the shrine at the top of the complex.
• Terraces stepped up the escarpment - buildings climbing the rock face.
• The August pilgrimage - a hillside turned into a temporary town.
• The valley view - the Nile plain from the upper terraces.

When to go

The first fortnight of August for the pilgrimage, which is the reason the place is known, though it is extremely crowded. October to April for a calm visit to the buildings themselves. Half a day either way.

Honest expectations

During the pilgrimage the crowds are overwhelming, accommodation is unavailable and movement is slow; it is a religious event, not a spectacle laid on for visitors. Modest dress and discretion with cameras are essential. Outside the feast there is relatively little to see. Regional escort arrangements may apply.

Nearby

Asyut is north; Al-Muharraq Monastery lies further north near Al-Qusiya.