Hurghada

Hurghada began as a small fishing settlement and an oil exploration base and became the largest resort city on the Egyptian mainland coast, running for some forty kilometres along the shore in a chain of hotel districts, of which El Dahar is the old town, Sekalla the middle and the marina and Sahl Hasheesh the newer ends. Its position is the reason: the reefs and islands of the Giftun group lie a short boat ride offshore, the wrecks of the Strait of Gubal including the Thistlegorm are within reach, and the wind is reliable enough for kitesurfing along much of the coast. The city itself is functional, and the old quarter of El Dahar with its souq is the only part with much character. Prices are among the lowest for Red Sea diving.

What you actually see

• Giftun island reefs - the standard boat trip offshore.
• Wreck diving access - the Gubal strait wrecks within day-boat range.
• El Dahar souq - the old quarter and its market streets.
• Kite beaches - flat shallow water along parts of the coast.

When to go

October to May for comfortable temperatures; the water is warm year round and summer is hot but cheap. Wind is strongest in summer, which suits kiters. Three days minimum, a week for diving. Christmas and Easter are peak.

Honest expectations

The city is sprawling, charmless and heavily built up, and there is no real centre to walk. Reef damage at the busiest sites is significant. Hard selling by boat and excursion touts is constant. Quality varies enormously between operators, so choose carefully.

Nearby

El Gouna is north; Safaga and Soma Bay lie south along the coast.