Lake Kivu

Kivu lies at around fifteen hundred metres between terraced hills, with Goma at the northern end under the volcanoes and Bukavu on its peninsulas at the southern. It is one of the deepest lakes in Africa and geologically one of the strangest: its lower layers hold vast quantities of dissolved carbon dioxide and methane, held down by the pressure and the density gradient, and the methane is now extracted commercially for power generation. The upper water is free of crocodiles, hippos and other large hazards, which makes it one of the few African lakes people routinely swim in.

What you actually see

• The lake - deep blue water at fifteen hundred metres, between terraced and wooded hills.
• The volcano view - Nyiragongo standing over the northern end, visible from the water.
• The islands - Idjwi and a scatter of smaller islands, worked by fishing and farming.
• The night fishing - wooden trimarans going out after dark with lamps, singing to keep time on the oars.

When to go

The drier windows, June to September and December to February, give the calmest water and the clearest views north to the volcanoes. Storms build quickly on the lake in the wet months. Early evening is when the fishing boats go out.

Honest expectations

Goma and Bukavu are working cities rather than lake resorts, and facilities on the shore are limited. Boat crossings are weather-dependent and schedules are informal. The dissolved gas in the deep water is a genuine geological feature rather than a hazard to swimmers, who stay in the upper layer.

Nearby

Goma is at the northern end, Bukavu at the southern, and Idjwi island lies between them.