The Cyprus Wine Villages

The southern slopes of the Troodos carry a set of stone villages, Omodos, Vouni, Lofou, Koilani and others, whose economy has been wine for a very long time. The signature product is commandaria, a sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes whose name comes from the medieval Grand Commandery of the Knights, and which has a decent claim to being the oldest named wine still in production. Modern producers work mainly with two indigenous varieties, the red Mavro and the white Xynisteri, which had a poor reputation under bulk production and are now being taken seriously by small estates. Villages like Omodos have a monastery and a cobbled square; Lofou is stone-built and quiet; Koilani has a small wine museum.

What to look for

• Omodos - a cobbled village square, monastery and several tasting rooms.
• Commandaria tasting - the sweet dried-grape wine at producers in the designated villages.
• Xynisteri and Maratheftiko - indigenous varieties from the newer small estates.
• Lofou and Koilani - quieter stone villages with steep lanes and small museums.

When to go

Spring and autumn are best, with the harvest and village wine festivals from late August into September. Summer is hot on the lower slopes. Winter is quiet with several small producers closed to visitors.

Things to know

Tasting requires a driver, since the villages are spread along winding mountain roads and there is no useful public transport. Quality varies enormously between the old cooperative-style bulk producers and the serious small estates, so it pays to plan rather than stop at the first sign. Omodos is the most visited and can feel commercialised in season.

Nearby

Limassol and the coast are below; the painted churches lie higher in the Troodos.