Maria la Gorda

María la Gorda sits on the sheltered eastern side of the Guanahacabibes peninsula, in the Bay of Corrientes, and it exists for diving. Around fifty sites lie within a short boat ride, most of them wall and coral garden dives in very clear water, with black coral, large sponges and a good chance of whale sharks in season. There is one hotel, a dive centre and nothing else, which is the whole point. The road in crosses the peninsula through the biosphere reserve and is long and empty.

What you actually see

• The wall dives - reef drop-offs a few minutes from the shore, in clear sheltered water.
• The black coral - extensive stands on several of the deeper sites.
• The whale sharks - seasonal visitors, most likely in the autumn months.
• The bay - calm protected water with a beach and a jetty, and nothing else built on it.

When to go

November to April is the dry season with the calmest water and best visibility. Whale shark sightings are most likely from around September to November. Hurricane season affects the peninsula from August to October.

Honest expectations

The single hotel is dated and food is limited, which surprises people expecting a resort. The drive from Pinar del Rio takes three hours on poor roads with no fuel for long stretches. Non-divers will find very little to do.

Nearby

Guanahacabibes National Park surrounds the bay, and Cabo San Antonio is at the western tip.