Baracoa

Baracoa was the first town the Spanish founded on Cuba, in 1511, and then it was effectively forgotten: the mountains behind it meant that until the La Farola road was cut in the 1960s, the only reliable way in was by sea. That isolation preserved a distinct local culture and, unusually for Cuba, a distinct cuisine, built on coconut milk, cacao and the spicy-sweet sauces that come with them. Above the town rises El Yunque, a flat-topped mountain that Columbus is said to have described in his journal, climbable in a long guided day. The Alejandro de Humboldt National Park nearby is one of the most biologically diverse spots in the Caribbean, and the rivers and beaches east of town are largely undeveloped.

What you actually see

• El Yunque - the flat-topped mountain above town, a guided climb with a swim at the end.
• Alejandro de Humboldt National Park - exceptional endemism in rainforest and river country.
• Cacao farms - small growers along the Toa and Duaba rivers, with tastings.
• Playa Maguana - a quiet beach east of town, with local seafood shacks.

When to go

November to April is drier, though Baracoa is one of the wettest parts of Cuba and rain is common in any month. The hurricane season from August to October is a genuine consideration; the town has been hit hard more than once.

Honest expectations

It is a very long way from everywhere, and the mountain road in is spectacular but slow and prone to closure after storms. Facilities are simple and shortages bite harder this far east. The rain is real: bring waterproofs even in the dry season. Guides are compulsory for El Yunque and the national park, which is both a rule and sensible.

Nearby

Guantánamo city lies over the mountains; Santiago de Cuba is the nearest major city.