Motovun and the Istrian Hill Towns

Inland from Istria's popular coast rises a gentle green country of vineyards, olive groves and oak forest, and scattered across its hilltops stand medieval walled villages that have earned the region comparisons with Tuscany. The most famous is Motovun, a small town wrapped in ramparts on a steep conical hill, its walls walkable for a sweeping view over the Mirna valley and the forest below, which is one of the great sources of truffles, hunted here with dogs and celebrated in the local cuisine along with the region's respected wines and olive oils. Nearby, the tiny hilltop settlement of Grožnjan has become a colony of artists and musicians, its lanes full of galleries and studios, while other villages such as Buzet and Oprtalj keep a quieter, workaday charm. This is a region for slow driving, hilltop views, long lunches of truffle and pasta, and cellar-door tastings, a complete contrast to the coastal resorts.

What you actually see

• Motovun's walls - the rampart walk with wide views over the valley and forest.
• Truffles and wine - the local truffle hunting, cuisine, wines and olive oils.
• Grožnjan - the tiny hilltop village turned artists' and musicians' colony.
• The hilltop villages - Buzet, Oprtalj and others across the green interior.

When to go

May to October is warm and green; autumn, the main truffle season, is a highlight for food lovers, with festivals in the villages. Summer is warmer and busier. The hill towns are best explored with a car, stopping at cellar doors and konobas, and mornings are cool for walking the walls.

Honest expectations

You really need a car to explore the scattered hill towns, as public transport in the interior is sparse; without one you are limited. The villages are small, seen in an hour or two each, so the pleasure is in the driving, the views and the food rather than big sights. Motovun in particular can be busy with day-trippers and during its film festival. Parking is often below the walls, with a walk up.

Nearby

The coastal towns of Rovinj and Poreč are within an hour; the Pula arena lies to the south.