Taganga

Taganga sits in a dry bay ringed by hills, and it was a Tayrona fishing settlement long before anything else - fishing still goes on from the beach. From the 1990s it became known as one of the cheapest places in the Americas to certify as a diver, and a substantial dive industry grew. The water here is unusual for the Caribbean: seasonal upwelling brings cold nutrient-rich water up the coast, which drops visibility but supports more life than the clear blue water further along, including seahorses and frogfish. The village had a difficult period with drug tourism and infrastructure that did not keep up with growth, and its reputation suffered accordingly; it is quieter now and water supply remains a real constraint.

What you actually see

• A dry bay ringed by hills - with fishing still worked from the beach.
• Cold upwelling water - lower visibility, more marine life.
• A long-standing cheap dive industry - certifications since the 1990s.
• A village that grew faster than its services - water supply is limited.

When to go

December to April; visibility varies with upwelling. A full day or several.

Honest expectations

Visibility is often poor compared with typical Caribbean diving - that is the trade-off for the marine life. Dive operator standards vary; check certification and equipment. Water supply in the village is unreliable. The beach itself is working harbour, not a swimming beach.

Nearby

Santa Marta is south; Tayrona park is east.