Sutatausa

The church here was built in the sixteenth century for a doctrina, a parish set up to convert the Muisca, and its interior carries wall paintings that are rare survivals: a Last Judgement and scenes of hell and purgatory painted in the chapels around the nave, made as instructional images for a congregation being taught a new religion in a language not their own, with details that show local hands at work. Much was whitewashed over and has been recovered by conservation. Sandstone cliffs stand above the village with rock art panels of Muisca origin on them. The area was a coal-mining district and some of that continues. The village is small and access to the church interior sometimes needs arranging with the parish.

History

Before the Spanish conquest the area belonged to the Muisca Confederation and was ruled by the zipa from Muyquytá, and the Chibcha name is read as small tribute. Hernán Pérez de Quesada, brother of the conquistador Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada, founded the modern town on Saint John's day, 24 June 1537, the same day he founded Tenza (Wikipedia, Sutatausa).

The main sights

• Colonial wall paintings - Last Judgement and hell scenes, recovered from whitewash.
• Images made for conversion - instructional pictures for a Muisca congregation.
• Sandstone cliffs above - carrying Muisca rock art.
• A small mining village - little visited.

When to go

Year round. Half a day.

What to expect

The church is not reliably open - access often needs arranging locally. There is minimal interpretation and none in English. The village has few services. Rock art requires a walk and local direction to find.

Nearby

Ubate is north; Zipaquira is south.

Key facts