Riohacha

Riohacha was founded in 1545 on the pearl fisheries of the Guajira coast and repeatedly sacked - Francis Drake among others - before settling into a quieter existence. Today it functions mainly as the gateway to the peninsula: trips to Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas, the northernmost point of South America, are arranged from here, and the road beyond becomes desert track. The seafront has a long pier and a promenade where Wayuu women sell mochilas, the woven bags whose patterns carry meaning within the culture and which are made by hand over weeks. The Wayuu are the largest indigenous group in Colombia and much of the department is their territory, with water scarcity a serious and recurring crisis.

What you actually see

• A staging point for the desert - trips to Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas.
• A long seafront pier - and a promenade beside it.
• Wayuu weavers selling mochilas - hand-made over weeks.
• A city founded on pearl fishing - in 1545, and sacked repeatedly.

When to go

December to April. A full day.

Honest expectations

The city itself is modest - most visitors pass through to the peninsula. Water scarcity in La Guajira is severe and affects services. Desert trips need reputable operators and four-wheel drive. Buying mochilas directly from weavers pays them better than shops.

Nearby

Palomino is west; Cabo de la Vela is north-east into the desert.