Nabusimake

Nabusimake sits at around two thousand metres in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and is the centre of the Arhuaco, one of four peoples - with the Kogi, Wiwa and Kankuamo - descended from the Tairona who hold the sierra to be the heart of the world and themselves responsible for its balance. The village is stone-walled with conical thatched houses, and it was a Capuchin mission until the community reclaimed it in 1982 and expelled the mission, which is part of a longer effort to hold their territory and practice. Entry requires permission arranged in advance through Arhuaco authorities, photography is restricted or prohibited, and the mamos, the spiritual leaders, set the terms. It is not a tourist destination and does not present itself as one.

What you actually see

• Stone walls and thatched conical houses - the village form.
• The Arhuaco centre - one of four Tairona-descended peoples of the sierra.
• A mission reclaimed in 1982 - by the community itself.
• Access on the community's terms - permission, restrictions, and a guide.

When to go

December to March, with permission arranged well ahead. A full day or overnight.

Honest expectations

You cannot simply turn up - permission must be arranged in advance and is sometimes refused. Photography is restricted or banned. The track in is rough and slow. This is a community's home and a sacred site, not an attraction.

Nearby

Pueblo Bello is below; Valledupar is east.