Los Nevados National Park

Above the coffee farms the central Andes keep climbing until the trees stop and the paramo begins: a spongy high moorland of frailejones, tussock grass and black volcanic sand that stores the water the whole region drinks. Los Nevados protects a stretch of it along with the volcanoes Ruiz, Santa Isabel and Tolima and the lakes below them, including Laguna del Otun. The northern entrance above Manizales lets you drive to roughly four thousand metres and walk from there, which is the easy way in; the southern sectors are multi-day treks from Salento or the Otun valley. Access changes with volcanic activity.

What you actually see

• The frailejon paramo - dense stands of woolly rosette plants above four thousand metres.
• Nevado del Ruiz - the snow and ash cone seen from the northern sector.
• Laguna del Otun - a cold glacial lake reached on a long walk or ride.
• The volcanic sands - black ash flats and craters near the high point of the road.

When to go

The drier months, December to February and July to August, give the best chance of seeing the peaks rather than cloud. Set out at dawn: the mountain is usually clear early and closes in by mid morning. Volcanic activity at Ruiz periodically restricts the northern sector, so confirm that the entrance is open before you drive up.

Honest expectations

You go from about two thousand metres to over four thousand in a couple of hours, and altitude sickness is common and unpleasant. It is cold, wet and windy, the paramo is a bog underfoot, and the glaciers are much smaller than older photographs suggest. Sectors close at short notice for volcanic activity or ecological rest, and some require a registered guide booked in advance.

Nearby

Manizales, the hot springs at Santa Rosa de Cabal and the Cocora valley all sit on its flanks.