Istanbul on foot: the old peninsula, downhill to the markets
Everything on the first hill before the crowds, then down through the palace gardens to the spice halls, up again to Sinan's mosque, and over the bridge for the last of the light.
The old city sits on a headland with seven hills on it, and almost everything people come for is within twenty minutes' walk of the first one. That is the good news. The bad news is that it is also where every tour bus stops, so this day is built around being early, going down while everyone else is still coming up, and finishing on the other side of the water.
Where to start: At Hagia Sophia when it opens. Every ticketed thing on this walk is worst between eleven and three, and the whole route runs downhill afterwards.
The walk, in order
- 1 Hagia Sophia
Be at the door for opening. A building that has been the largest interior in the world, and the queue doubles by mid-morning.
- 2 Hippodrome of Constantinople
Step straight out onto the old chariot arena - now an open square with an Egyptian obelisk still standing on the line of the central barrier. Free, and quiet only at this hour: by mid-morning it is the busiest square in the city.
- 3 The Blue Mosque
The cascade of domes on the same square. Free, closed to visitors around prayer times, and shoulders and knees covered - scarves are lent at the door.
- 4 Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum
On the edge of the square, in a vizier's palace: imperial carpets and Qur'ans, and almost empty while the mosque next door is shoulder to shoulder.
- 5 Basilica Cistern
Three minutes away and completely different - 336 columns standing in black water under the street. Cool on the hottest day, which is the other reason to do it now.
- 6 GĂĽlhane Park
Walk down through the old outer gardens of the palace. This is the shaded way to lose height, and the tea gardens at the bottom are where the city actually sits.
- 7 Istanbul Archaeology Museums
In those same gardens: the Alexander Sarcophagus and a tiled pavilion most visitors walk straight past on their way to the palace.
- 8 RĂĽstem Pasha Mosque
Down among the market streets, up an unmarked staircase: a small Sinan mosque lined wall to wall in Ä°znik tile. The best-value ten minutes in Istanbul and most people never find the stairs.
- 9 The Spice Bazaar and Eminonu Streets
The L-shaped hall of 1664 below it - spice, dried fruit and lokum. Touristy inside, and the streets around it are where the city buys the same things cheaper.
- 10 The Grand Bazaar
Uphill into the labyrinth: one of the oldest covered markets anywhere, and closed on Sundays, which catches people out. Agree a price before the tea arrives.
- 11 SĂĽleymaniye Mosque
On the third hill, Sinan's own masterpiece, with a terrace looking over the Golden Horn. Quieter than the Blue Mosque and, to most eyes, the finer building.
- 12 Galata Tower
Cross the bridge past the fishermen and climb the Genoese tower of 1348 for the view back at everywhere you walked. Book a slot or accept the queue; sunset is worth either.
Where to cheat
The tram shadows the whole route along the peninsula and across the bridge, so any tired half of the day can be ridden. The climb from the markets to Süleymaniye is the only real effort. Ferries leave from Eminönü right where the spice market ends - twenty minutes on the water costs the price of a coffee and is the cheapest sightseeing in the city.
Honest expectations
Topkapı is deliberately not on this list. It takes half a day done properly, and bolting it on turns this walk into a march past everything else - give it its own morning. The Grand Bazaar is a place to see rather than to shop unless you enjoy bargaining, and it shuts on Sundays, when the Spice Bazaar stays open. Mosques are working buildings: they close to visitors around the five daily prayers and for longer on Friday midday, so check the day's times before you set off rather than standing outside a locked door.
More of this country is on the Turkey page. Going between towns instead? See the routes. Other cities on foot are on city walks.