Wang Family Compound

The Wang family rose from selling tofu in the Ming dynasty to become officials and merchants, and over three centuries they built a complex at Jingsheng that dwarfs the better-known Qiao compound: two main castle-like groups, Gaojiaya and Hongmenbao, with around a hundred and twenty courtyards and well over a thousand rooms terraced up a loess hillside behind defensive walls and gates. The carving is the reason to come: brick, stone and wood carving of exceptional density covers screen walls, doorframes, eaves and gate piers, illustrating stories, animals and auspicious motifs. Because it is further from Pingyao and less filmed, it receives far fewer visitors than its scale deserves.

History

The local Wang family came from Taiyuan to Jingsheng in 1312, under the Yuan dynasty, and family lore says their fortune began with selling bean curd; by the 18th century, rich from trade and office, they were at the height of their wealth. Over several generations, from the reign of the Kangxi Emperor to that of the Jiaqing Emperor, they built the compound on a grand scale, the largest of the Shanxi courtyard houses, and in 2008 it was placed on UNESCO's tentative list among the ancient residences of Shanxi and Shaanxi (Wikipedia, Wang Family Compound).

The main sights

• The two walled groups - Gaojiaya and Hongmenbao terraced up the hillside.
• The carving - dense brick, stone and wood work across the buildings.
• The scale - some hundred and twenty courtyards and over a thousand rooms.
• The defensive layout - walls, gates and a fortified plan.

When to go

April to October for the best weather; the compound is exposed and cold in winter. It is quieter than Qiao even in holidays. Three to four hours is needed to see it properly, more than most tours allow.

Things to know

The site involves a lot of stair climbing across terraces. Public transport from Pingyao is awkward and a taxi or tour is easier. Interpretation is largely in Chinese, and the sheer number of similar courtyards becomes repetitive without a guide.

Nearby

Pingyao lies north; Zhangbi castle is east in the same county area.

Key facts