The Longji Rice Terraces

North of Guilin the hills are steep enough that farming means terracing, and around the villages of Ping'an and Dazhai the terraces run from the valley floor almost to the ridgelines in narrow curved steps. The look changes completely through the year: flooded and mirror-like after planting in spring, solid green through summer, gold just before the autumn harvest and bare brown earth for the rest. Footpaths link the villages, and walking from Ping'an across to the Dazhai side takes several hours. Dazhai has cable cars to the upper viewpoints, while Ping'an is reached on foot. Both are Zhuang and Yao settlements that now depend heavily on visitors.

What you actually see

• Ping'an village viewpoints - the two marked lookouts above the village, over the tightest terrace curves.
• Dazhai and Jinkeng - the larger terrace amphitheatre on the far side, with cable cars to the top.
• The village-to-village path - a half-day walk across the ridge between the two main areas.
• Flooded terraces in spring - the few weeks after planting when the steps hold water and reflect the sky.

When to go

Two short windows matter: mid spring, when the terraces are flooded, and roughly a fortnight before the autumn harvest, when they turn gold. Outside those the hillsides are plain green or bare. Early morning mist is common and often better than midday. Stay overnight in a village rather than day-tripping from Guilin, which wastes most of the light.

Honest expectations

The stone paths up to the guesthouses are steep, and luggage has to be carried or portered for a fee. Both main villages are now largely guesthouses and souvenir stalls, and the area ticket is charged whether or not the terraces are in season. Ask before photographing people, since local dress is used to attract paid photos.

Nearby

Guilin and the Li River are about two hours south.