Hoh Xil

Hoh Xil, Kekexili in Chinese, covers around forty-five thousand square kilometres of plateau above 4,500 metres, effectively without permanent human settlement, and it was inscribed by UNESCO in 2017 as the largest and highest plateau ecosystem of its kind. It is the main calving ground of the Tibetan antelope, which migrate here in summer in tens of thousands, and it holds wild yak, kiang, wolves and brown bears. Poaching for antelope wool devastated the population in the 1980s and 1990s before patrols and protection turned it around. The core is closed; the highway and railway along the eastern edge are where it is seen.

What you actually see

• The Tibetan antelope - herds visible from the road and railway in summer.
• The empty plateau - grassland and lakes running to the horizon unpeopled.
• The wild yak and kiang - large mammals on the open ground.
• The Kunlun pass - the high crossing on the road at over 4,700 metres.

When to go

June to September, when antelope migrate to the calving grounds and the passes are clear; winter is extreme. Sightings from the road and train are a matter of luck at any time.

Honest expectations

The reserve core is closed to visitors and entering without authorisation is prohibited and dangerous. Viewing is from the highway or train at distance. Altitude above 4,500 metres is a serious hazard.

Nearby

Golmud lies north; the Qinghai-Tibet railway crosses the reserve edge.