Chongwu Ancient Town

Chongwu was built in 1387 as one of a chain of coastal garrisons against Japanese pirate raids, and unlike most such towns its wall survives complete: around two and a half kilometres of granite, four gates and towers, standing on a headland above the sea. Granite defines the whole town, since Hui'an is a centre of stone carving and the local quarries supplied the material; houses, lanes and even roof weights are stone. The Hui'an women are known for a distinctive dress of short jacket, wide trousers and bright headscarf, still worn by older generations, and for their historic role in heavy work including stone carving and construction.

What you actually see

• The granite wall - two and a half kilometres of Ming fortification, complete.
• The stone town - houses and lanes built almost entirely of granite.
• The Hui'an dress - the distinctive local women's clothing still worn.
• The stone carving - the sculpture park and workshops of the district.

When to go

October to April for mild weather; summer is hot and typhoon-prone. The town is quiet on weekdays. Coastal wind is constant on the headland.

Honest expectations

Parts of the wall and town have been restored for tourism, with a sculpture park that some find kitsch. The Hui'an dress is worn mainly by older women and photographing people without asking is intrusive. Entry is charged.

Nearby

Quanzhou lies west; Xiamen is southwest along the coast.