Valparaiso

Valparaiso is Chile's bohemian, poetic and gloriously chaotic port city, a UNESCO gem where a jumble of brightly painted houses tumbles down steep hills to the Pacific. A labyrinth of winding alleys, staircases and lookouts, splashed everywhere with vivid, world-famous street art and murals, it is linked by a network of creaking historic funiculars, or ascensores. Once a great port, it inspired the poet Pablo Neruda and retains a raffish, artistic, faded grandeur.

What you actually see

• The painted hills - the brightly coloured houses tumbling to the sea.
• The street art - the vivid murals covering the alleys and stairways.
• The funiculars - the historic ascensores climbing the hills.
• La Sebastiana - the poet Pablo Neruda's quirky house museum.

When to go

October to April, the warmer months, for the best weather; the hills of Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion are the most charming and art-covered to explore on foot. New Year brings a famous fireworks display over the bay.

Honest expectations

It is a working port city, and the tourist life - the cafes, galleries and painted stairways - is concentrated on Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion. It is steep and best on foot. Its faded, chaotic charm is not for everyone, but many find it captivating.

Nearby

The resort of Vina del Mar, the Casablanca wine valley and Santiago are close.