Humboldt Penguin Reserve

The cold Humboldt Current runs up this coast and fills it with life, and the Humboldt Penguin National Reserve protects three islands where that concentration is most visible. Boats leave from the fishing hamlet of Punta de Choros and circle Isla Choros, where Humboldt penguins nest in burrows on the slopes, sea lions haul out on the rocks in loud heaps, and marine otters, called chungungos, work the kelp at the waterline. Bottlenose dolphins often ride the bow. Landing is allowed only on Isla Damas, which has white sand beaches and a short marked path, and numbers are limited. In summer, fin and occasionally blue whales feed in the channel, and the boats detour when they appear.

What you actually see

• Isla Choros - penguin colonies, sea lions and marine otters, viewed from the boat.
• Isla Damas - the only island where landing is permitted, with white sand and a marked path.
• Dolphins and whales - bottlenose dolphins year-round, large whales in summer.
• Punta de Choros - the fishing village and its scallop and seafood stalls.

When to go

December to March for the calmest seas and the best chance of whales. Boats are frequently cancelled by swell at any time of year, so allow a spare day rather than making this the last item before a flight.

Honest expectations

Cancellations are common and not negotiable; the ocean here is exposed. Landings on Isla Damas are capped and sometimes suspended entirely for conservation, so a trip may be boat-only. The boats are small and open, the water is cold and the crossing can be rough enough to make people ill. Take warm layers even in summer.

Nearby

La Serena and the Elqui valley are south; the Atacama begins further north.