Québec Winter Carnival

Québec City spends ten days of deep winter throwing the largest carnival of its kind anywhere, a tradition going back to the nineteenth century and formalised in the 1950s. Its mascot, Bonhomme, a giant snowman in a red toque and arrow sash, presides from an ice palace built fresh each year in front of the parliament. The programme runs from night parades of illuminated floats through snow sculpture competitions, a canoe race across the half-frozen St Lawrence in which teams push and paddle their boats over moving ice, sleigh rides, and a great deal of caribou, the fortified hot drink that makes standing outside at minus twenty possible. The walled old town, the only one north of Mexico, is the setting, which makes the whole thing look like an engraving.

What you actually see

• The ice palace - Bonhomme's palace, rebuilt each year in ice.
• The night parades - illuminated floats through the winter streets.
• The ice canoe race - teams pushing boats across the moving ice of the St Lawrence.
• Snow sculpture - the international competition across the site.

When to go

The carnival runs for about ten days in early February, with dates published well ahead. Book accommodation months in advance, as the city fills. Dress for genuine cold: temperatures well below minus twenty with wind are normal and the events are outdoors.

Honest expectations

It is properly cold, colder than most visitors have experienced, and enjoying it depends entirely on having the right clothing, particularly boots. Most sites require the effigy pass. The city is expensive and full during carnival. Outdoor events are long and standing, so plan warm breaks rather than trying to tough it out.

Nearby

Montmorency Falls and Île d'Orléans are just outside the city; Montréal is three hours southwest.