Canmore

Canmore mined coal from 1886 until 1979 and would probably have shrunk after that, but it sits just outside the Banff park gate, so it can build and sell property in a way the park town cannot; the 1988 Calgary Olympics, which put the Nordic events here, accelerated the change. The Nordic Centre still runs as a training and recreation venue with biathlon ranges and mountain bike trails. The Three Sisters, three peaks above the valley, are the town's emblem. Grassi Lakes, small pools coloured by minerals above the town, are one of the most walked short trails in the Rockies.

What you actually see

• The Three Sisters - three peaks standing over the Bow Valley.
• The Nordic Centre - the 1988 Olympic venue with trails and biathlon ranges.
• Grassi Lakes - small mineral-coloured pools on a short steep trail.
• The coal history - mine buildings and interpretive sites in the valley.

When to go

June to September for hiking and biking; December to March for nordic and ice climbing. Canmore is busiest in summer and cheaper than Banff, though not by as much as it once was.

Honest expectations

Accommodation prices have risen sharply and the town is no longer the budget alternative it was. Grassi Lakes and other short trails are crowded. Wildlife corridors run through town and elk are not tame.

Nearby

Banff lies west; Kananaskis Country is south.