Ngaoundere Lamido Palace

Ngaoundere is the seat of a lamidat, one of the Fulani emirates established across the north in the nineteenth century, and the lamido's palace stands in the middle of the town: a walled compound entered through a great vestibule with a tall conical thatched roof supported on carved posts, where the lamido receives and holds court. The protocol is formal and observed; visitors remove shoes, are led by a guide from the palace and follow the rules of the court. A museum in the compound holds regalia, weapons and instruments. On Fridays and at festivals the lamido processes to the mosque with musicians and retainers in a display that is worth timing a visit for.

What you actually see

• The great thatched vestibule - the conical entrance hall on carved posts.
• Court protocol observed - the rules visitors follow inside the compound.
• The palace museum - regalia, weapons and instruments of the lamidat.
• The Friday procession - the lamido going to the mosque with musicians.

When to go

November to March, the cool dry season; Fridays and Muslim festivals for the processions. Half a day. A guide from the palace is compulsory and photography is restricted.

Honest expectations

Access depends on the palace and parts are closed. Photography is limited and often refused. Fees and guide charges are agreed on arrival and vary. Dress and behaviour expectations are strict and enforced.

Nearby

Lake Tison is south; the Vina falls lie south-west.