Bafut Royal Palace

Bafut is one of the larger fondoms of the western grassfields, and the palace of its Fon is a compound of courtyards and buildings that has been the seat of the chieftaincy for centuries. At its centre stands the Achum, a tall conical thatched shrine of great age and religious significance, which is not entered by outsiders and around which the ceremonial life of the fondom turns. Other buildings include a German-built structure from the colonial period, now holding a museum of the fondom's history and regalia. The naturalist Gerald Durrell stayed here in the 1950s while collecting animals and wrote a book about it that is still widely read.

What you actually see

• The Achum shrine - the tall thatched building at the centre of the compound.
• The palace museum - regalia and history of the fondom.
• Courtyards of the compound - the arrangement of the royal enclosure.
• The Durrell connection - the naturalist who stayed and wrote about it.

When to go

November to February in the dry season; annual dances and ceremonies fall at set points in the year. Half a day. A guide from the palace is required and the shrine is not entered.

Honest expectations

The Achum is sacred and closed to visitors; photographing parts of the compound may be refused. Fees and guiding arrangements are agreed on arrival. Ask locally about current conditions before making the trip.

Nearby

Bamenda is south; the ring road runs north.