Thommanon

Thommanon is a small Hindu temple of the early twelfth century, contemporary with Angkor Wat, and its interest is condition: it was restored by the French in the 1960s and stands more complete than most temples of its size, so the relationship between sanctuary, antechamber and gateway is legible in a way that ruins rarely allow. The devatas carved on its walls are among the better-preserved at Angkor, standing figures with elaborate headdresses and jewellery, sheltered enough to have kept their detail. Across the road stands Chau Say Tevoda, its near twin, built at the same period and restored later by a Chinese team, so the two can be compared directly. Both take twenty minutes.

History

Thommanon is one of a pair of Hindu temples, with Chau Say Tevoda opposite, built in the reign of Suryavarman II (1113-1150) and dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu; some scholars date it to the end of the 11th century under Jayavarman VI on the evidence of its devata carvings, but most agree that it was built around the time work began on Angkor Wat. In the 1960s it was fully restored with funding from the École française d'Extrême-Orient, when French archaeologists added concrete ceilings, and it is part of the Angkor World Heritage Site inscribed in 1992 (Wikipedia, Thommanon).

The main sights

• Well-preserved devatas - carved female figures with fine surviving detail.
• A complete small plan - sanctuary and antechamber legible as built.
• Chau Say Tevoda opposite - the paired temple across the road.
• Angkor Wat-period style - carving contemporary with the great temple.

When to go

November to March. Both temples are small and quick, and they sit on the busy road east of the Victory Gate, so early morning is quieter. Light on the devatas is best in the morning.

Good to know

The temple is small and the visit brief. It sits beside a road with traffic and vendors. Restoration means some of what stands is reassembled. It is often skipped by tours, which is to its advantage.

Nearby

Chau Say Tevoda is across the road; Ta Keo lies east.

Key facts