Phnom Santuk

Phnom Santuk rises around two hundred metres from the plain southeast of Kampong Thom, and a stairway of roughly eight hundred steps climbs to the top past shrines, stupas and rock outcrops carved with Buddha images, including reclining figures cut directly into the boulders. It is an active pilgrimage hill with a working monastery, busiest on holy days. At the foot, stone carvers work in a row of open workshops, producing Buddha figures, lions and pillars from sandstone, which is the region's craft and worth as much time as the climb. Macaques live on the hill and are aggressive about food. The view from the top runs over the rice plain in every direction.

What you actually see

• The eight hundred steps - the stairway climbing past shrines and stupas.
• Rock-cut Buddhas - reclining figures carved into the boulders.
• Stone carvers - workshops at the foot of the hill working sandstone.
• Macaques - troops on the stairway, bold about food.

When to go

November to March; the climb is punishing in the hot months from March to May. Early morning is coolest. Buddhist holy days bring pilgrims and a different atmosphere.

Honest expectations

Eight hundred steps in heat is hard work and there is limited shade. Macaques snatch bags and food and can bite; nothing edible should be visible. The site is a working monastery, so dress and behaviour matter. Facilities are minimal.

Nearby

Kampong Thom lies northwest; Sambor Prei Kuk is north.