Veliko Tarnovo

Veliko Tarnovo, in the hills of north-central Bulgaria, is one of the most dramatically sited and historic towns in the country, the medieval capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire and the seat of its tsars. Its old houses cascade down steep, terraced gorges above a horseshoe bend of the Yantra River, and it is crowned by the great restored hilltop fortress of Tsarevets, once the seat of power, whose ramparts and the atmospheric craft street of Samovodska Charshia evoke the town's glorious past.

What you actually see

• Tsarevets Fortress - the great hilltop fortress of the tsars.
• The river-gorge setting - the houses cascading down the terraced gorge.
• Samovodska Charshia - the atmospheric old craft and market street.
• The sound-and-light show - the evening spectacle over the fortress.

When to go

Spring and autumn for the mildest weather; the town's dramatic setting is beautiful year-round, and the evening sound-and-light show over Tsarevets, held on some nights, is a highlight. It is a relaxed, atmospheric town to explore on foot.

Honest expectations

It is a few hours from Sofia in the interior, so it takes a trip to reach, but rewards with genuine medieval history and a spectacular setting. The town is steep and terraced, tiring to walk. The fortress is largely a reconstruction. Its dramatic gorge setting, historic significance and relaxed atmosphere, though, make it one of Bulgaria's most rewarding towns.

Nearby

The village of Arbanasi, the Etar open-air museum and the Balkan Mountains are nearby.