Guarda do Embau

The Rio da Madre runs along the back of the beach and out through a gap in the sand, and to reach the beach from the village you cross it - wading when it is low, or paying a boatman to row you the short distance, which is the small ritual that defines the place. The wave at the river mouth is a right-hand point that works on southerly swell and has been a Brazilian surf reference for decades; the village was approved as the ninth World Surfing Reserve in 2016 and formally dedicated in 2019, one of a small number worldwide. Behind the beach is a dune and the Serra do Tabuleiro state park, with a lookout at Morro do Cachorro. The village is small, with pousadas and a few restaurants, and it is quiet outside summer and swell.

What you actually see

• A river crossing to the beach - waded or rowed, depending on the level.
• A right-hand point break - the wave at the river mouth on southerly swell.
• A World Surfing Reserve - the ninth in the world, dedicated in 2019.
• Serra do Tabuleiro behind - the state park and the Cachorro lookout.

When to go

March to September for swell; summer for warmth. Two days.

Honest expectations

The crossing is part of every trip to the beach, including with luggage and boards. The break is competitive and crowded when it works. Water is cold and rips at the mouth are strong. Facilities are limited and the village closes down out of season.

Nearby

Florianopolis is north; Praia do Rosa is south down the coast.