Caraiva

Caraiva sits on a spit where the Caraiva River meets the Atlantic, and the road stops on the far bank - you cross by canoe and walk in, which is the whole reason the place is what it is. There are no cars, no paved streets and no street lighting to speak of; sand is the surface everywhere and torches are standard after dark. Mains electricity only arrived in 2007, and the village still runs at a lower intensity than the rest of this coast. Pousadas and small restaurants line the sand lanes, and there is forro most nights in season. South along the beach lies the Pataxo village at Barra Velha inside Monte Pascoal, reachable on horseback or by long walk, and whale watching runs offshore between July and November.

What you actually see

• A canoe crossing to arrive - no road and no vehicles in the village.
• Sand streets and torchlight - mains power only since 2007.
• Forro in the sand lanes - live music most nights in season.
• Pataxo villages south - Barra Velha along the beach toward Monte Pascoal.

When to go

September to March; July to November for whales. Three days.

Honest expectations

Everything arrives by canoe, including luggage, and the crossing stops at night. There are no ATMs and card acceptance is patchy - bring cash. Power and water can fail. In peak season the village is crowded and prices are high for what is offered.

Nearby

Trancoso is north; Monte Pascoal and Corumbau are south.