Cananeia

Cananeia claims a founding date of 1531 and is among the oldest continuously occupied settlements in Brazil, though it never grew - a small colonial centre of low houses, a seventeenth-century church and a working fishing fleet on the estuary. What makes it worth the drive is what lies around it: the Lagamar estuarine complex, one of the best-preserved on the Brazilian coast and part of the Atlantic Forest protected system, with mangrove channels, dolphins and an oyster fishery. Ilha do Cardoso across the water is a state park of forest, beaches and caicara communities, reached by boat with restricted access. Ilha Comprida runs eighty-odd kilometres north as a sand barrier. The estuary here supports a large share of the region's fish nurseries.

What you actually see

• A 1531 foundation that stayed small - colonial fabric in a working fishing town.
• The Lagamar estuary - mangrove channels among the best preserved on the coast.
• Ilha do Cardoso - a forest and beach state park with caicara villages.
• Ilha Comprida - the long sand barrier running north.

When to go

April to September. Two days.

Honest expectations

Boats to Cardoso run to limited schedules and access is capped; camping there needs booking. The town has few restaurants and they close early. Rain is frequent on this coast. Insects in the mangrove at dusk are heavy.

Nearby

Iguape is north up the barrier; PETAR and the Ribeira valley are inland.