Brasília

Brasília was conjured out of the empty central plateau in the late 1950s to be a new capital, planned by Lúcio Costa in the shape of a cross or an aeroplane and built at astonishing speed, with its landmark buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer. The result is the great monument of twentieth-century modernist urbanism and a World Heritage Site: a city of sweeping white concrete curves, reflecting pools and vast civic spaces. Along the Monumental Axis stand the twin towers and domed bowls of the National Congress, the crown-like Cathedral with its ring of soaring ribs and stained glass, the Itamaraty Palace floating on its pool, and the Palácio da Alvorada. It is a city to be read as a work of design and political ambition rather than an old town to wander, and it divides opinion as sharply as it did when it was built.

History

The idea of moving the capital inland was put forward in 1827 by José Bonifácio, an adviser to Emperor Pedro I, and the Constitution of 1891 ordered it moved to the centre of the country; the Belgian astronomer Luís Cruls surveyed the Central Plateau in 1892 and 1894, and in 1922, for the centenary of independence, an obelisk known as the Foundation Stone of Brasília was raised on the chosen site. Juscelino Kubitschek, elected president in 1955, began planning and building the city as soon as he took office in January 1956, an international jury chose Lúcio Costa's plan the following year, and the city was founded on 21 April 1960, replacing Rio de Janeiro as the national capital (Wikipedia, Brasília).

What to look for

• The Cathedral of Brasília - Niemeyer's ring of white ribs with luminous stained glass inside.
• The National Congress - the twin towers and the domed and bowl-shaped chambers.
• The Monumental Axis - the vast ceremonial spine lined with ministries and monuments.
• Praça dos Três Poderes - the square joining the seats of the three branches of government.

When to go

May to September is the dry season with clear skies that suit the white architecture; the wet season brings heavy afternoon storms. The city is quietest at weekends when government offices close. The light on the concrete is best early and late in the day.

Practical notes

Brasília was designed for the car, not the pedestrian: distances between landmarks are huge, blocks are separated by highways, and walking between sights is impractical, so you need taxis or a car. Some visitors find it monumental and inspiring, others cold and empty. The interest is architectural and conceptual; if modernist design leaves you unmoved, a day is plenty.

Nearby

The city is isolated on the central plateau; the Chapada dos Veadeiros highlands are a few hours north.