El Alto

El Alto grew from a settlement on the altiplano rim into a city of around a million people, largely Aymara, and it is now one of the largest indigenous-majority cities in the Americas and a place with its own character rather than a suburb of La Paz below. Two things stand out. The 16 de Julio market, held on Thursdays and Sundays, spreads over dozens of blocks and sells everything from car parts to livestock, one of the largest open-air markets on the continent. And the cholets: buildings commissioned by successful Aymara traders and designed largely by Freddy Mamani, brightly coloured facades over event halls, shops and rooftop houses, in a style that draws on Andean textile pattern and has drawn international attention.

What you actually see

• Cholet architecture - vivid facades and ballroom interiors by Aymara builders.
• 16 de Julio market - dozens of blocks of trade on Thursdays and Sundays.
• The altiplano rim - the drop into the La Paz bowl with Illimani beyond.
• The cable cars - the teleférico lines linking the two cities.

When to go

Thursday or Sunday for the market, which is the reason most visitors come. May to September for clear weather. The cable car runs through the day and the ride up is part of the experience.

Honest expectations

El Alto is at 4,150 metres, higher than La Paz, and the altitude is felt. The market is crowded and pickpocketing is common; valuables should be left behind. Cholet interiors are private event halls and seeing inside needs arranging through a tour. Some areas warrant caution.

Nearby

La Paz lies below; Tiwanaku is west across the altiplano.