The Caves of Han-sur-Lesse

At Han-sur-Lesse the river Lesse meets a limestone massif and simply vanishes into it, running for kilometres underground before emerging on the far side, and in doing so it has hollowed out a cave system of extraordinary size. Visits begin with a ride on an old tram out to the hillside entrance, then follow a route of well over a kilometre through chambers that keep getting larger, past forests of stalagmites and flowstone curtains, to the Salle du Dôme, a space so big the ceiling is invisible in the dark. The exit is the best part: a boat carries you out along the underground river into daylight. Above ground, the same estate runs a large wildlife park with European species, and the village sits in pleasant Ardennes country.

What you actually see

• The Salle du Dôme - the vast chamber whose ceiling disappears in the dark.
• The boat exit - leaving the cave along the underground river into daylight.
• The formations - stalagmite forests and flowstone through the route.
• The tram ride - the old tram out to the cave entrance.

When to go

April to October is the main season, with reduced opening in winter and closures in January; tours run at set times and book out in the summer holidays. It is around thirteen degrees inside year-round, so bring a layer whatever the weather outside.

Honest expectations

The visit is heavily packaged, with a tram, a light-and-sound show in one chamber and a wildlife park attached, which suits families but grates on those who want a straightforward cave. It is a fair walk underground with steps and damp footing. Tours run in several languages at different times, so check the schedule to avoid a long wait for one you understand.

Nearby

Rochefort and its abbey beer are close; Dinant and the Meuse valley lie west.