Pangthumai

Pangthumai is a border village north of Sylhet sitting below a large waterfall on the Meghalaya slopes, and the arrangement is particular: the fall itself is in India, a few hundred metres beyond the line, and it is watched from the Bangladeshi side across a stream, with boats taking visitors as close as the border allows. In the monsoon it comes down the rock face in a long white column and is genuinely impressive; in the dry season it reduces considerably. The village has a stone-collecting economy like the rest of this border strip. Border guards regulate how close boats may go and the rules are enforced, so the view is from a set distance and crossing is not possible.

What you actually see

• A large fall on the Indian slope - watched from the Bangladeshi side.
• Boats to the border limit - as close as the guards allow.
• Monsoon flow - the fall as a long white column in the wet season.
• The border village - the settlement and its stone economy.

When to go

July to September for the fall to be running properly. Half a day. Boats are hired locally. Border rules govern how close you can get and are enforced; do not push them.

Honest expectations

The waterfall is in India and cannot be approached; the view is from a distance. In the dry season it is thin. Border guards on both sides watch the area and photography of personnel or posts is not acceptable. Facilities are minimal.

Nearby

Bisnakandi is east; Jaflong lies further along the border.