Muharraq Halwa

Bahraini halwa is made from cornstarch, sugar, ghee, saffron, rosewater, cardamom and nuts, stirred in a large copper pan over a wood fire for hours until it turns translucent and holds together, and the Muharraq houses that make it, Showaiter among the best known, have been at it for well over a century. It is sold by weight, eaten with coffee and given at weddings and Eid.

What you actually see

• The copper pan - the vessel the mixture is stirred in over a wood fire.
• The long stirring - hours of work to bring the mixture to translucency.
• The saffron and rosewater - the flavourings that define the Bahraini version.
• The old houses - Muharraq makers who have run for over a century.

When to go

November to March is the comfortable season for walking Muharraq. Making happens through the day at the older houses. Eid and wedding seasons are the busiest.

Honest expectations

It is extremely sweet and very rich, and small quantities go a long way. The older houses are working premises rather than visitor attractions. Watching the making depends on the shop and the time of day.

Nearby

The Pearling Path runs through Muharraq, and Arad Fort is east.