Durnstein and its Castle Ruin

Durnstein is a single street of vintners' houses squeezed between the Danube and a steep rock, with the ruin of a castle on top and the abbey's blue and white tower at the water's edge. The climb to the ruin takes about twenty five minutes on a rough stepped path and ends at broken walls, with the river bending away in both directions and terraced vineyards on the far bank. Richard the Lionheart was held prisoner in the castle in the 1190s, which the village has never let anyone forget. Below, apricot orchards and wine cellars line the approach roads.

What you actually see

• The castle ruin - the stepped climb to the broken walls above the village and the bend of the Danube.
• The abbey church tower - the blue and white baroque tower on the terrace over the river.
• The main street - the row of vintners' houses, cellars and courtyards running through the village.
• The vineyard terraces - the dry stone walls stepping up the slope on both banks.

When to go

April for apricot blossom, September and October for the harvest and the clearest air. The path to the ruin is loose underfoot and best avoided after rain or in frost. River cruises unload in mid morning and again in the afternoon and the street briefly fills; before ten it is almost empty.

Honest expectations

The village is small and heavily geared to visitors, with parking charged and often full by late morning. The climb is short but steep, uneven and unfenced in places, and the ruin itself is bare walls rather than rooms. Wine and food prices reflect the location. In August it can feel more like a queue than a village.

Nearby

Krems, the Wachau vineyards and the abbey at Melk lie along the same stretch of river.