Cocos (Keeling) Islands

The Cocos Islands lie about twenty-seven hundred kilometres northwest of Perth, two atolls of twenty-seven coral islands enclosing a shallow lagoon. Only two are inhabited: West Island, with the airstrip and a mostly Australian population, and Home Island, where the Cocos Malay community lives, descended from workers brought by the Clunies-Ross family who ran the islands as a private copra estate from the 1820s until the Australian government bought them out and a 1984 vote determined their future. Direction Island, reached by ferry, has a snorkelling channel known as the Rip where current carries swimmers past reef fish and sharks. Kitesurfing on the lagoon is exceptional.

What you actually see

• The lagoon - shallow turquoise water enclosed by coral islands.
• The Rip at Direction Island - a drift snorkel past reef and sharks.
• Home Island - the Cocos Malay community, mosque and cemetery.
• The kitesurfing - reliable trade winds over flat lagoon water.

When to go

April to October for the driest weather and reliable trade winds for kitesurfing; the wet season brings squalls. Flights operate a limited weekly schedule via Christmas Island and should be booked well ahead.

Honest expectations

Getting there is expensive and slow, with flights a few times a week and cancellations disruptive. Accommodation and food are limited and costly, with supplies arriving by ship. Home Island is a Muslim community and modest dress is expected.

Nearby

Christmas Island lies northeast; Perth is the mainland link.