Santiago del Estero

Santiago del Estero was founded in 1553 and has been inhabited ever since, making it the oldest surviving Spanish settlement in what is now Argentina, and it is known as the mother of cities because expeditions from here founded Tucumán, Córdoba and others. Little colonial fabric survives the centuries of flood, earthquake and rebuilding, but the city keeps a distinct character: it is hot, unhurried and deeply musical, the birthplace of the chacarera, the fast, danced rhythm of the northwest, played in peñas across the city and celebrated in a national festival. Quichua, a local descendant of the Andean language, is still spoken in the province. The cathedral, the riverside park and a strong archaeological museum fill an easy day.

What you actually see

• The cathedral and plaza - the city's centre, rebuilt after floods and quakes.
• The peñas - venues where chacarera is played and danced most nights.
• The archaeological museum - one of the country's best pre-Hispanic collections.
• The riverside park - the Dulce river promenade and green space.

When to go

April to October, when the heat eases; summer temperatures here are among the highest in the country. The chacarera and folklore festivals fall mostly in the cooler months. Evenings are when the city comes alive.

Honest expectations

The city has few standing colonial buildings despite its age, which surprises visitors expecting a historic centre. Summer heat is extreme and daytime activity stops. The main draw, live music, requires an evening and some Spanish to enjoy fully.

Nearby

Termas de Río Hondo lies northwest; Tucumán is north on the RN9.