Cuesta del Viento

The Cuesta del Viento reservoir sits in the Iglesia valley of northern San Juan, its water an improbable turquoise against dry hills banded in red, cream and grey. Its fame comes from the wind: valley geography funnels a strong, remarkably consistent afternoon thermal across the water for much of the warm season, and windsurfers and kitesurfers from around the world come to Rodeo because conditions arrive almost on schedule, day after day. Mornings are usually glassy and quiet, good for swimming and paddling, and by early afternoon the surface is white with sails. The village of Rodeo has grown a small ecosystem of hostels, board hire and instructors around the sport, and the surrounding valley offers hot springs and desert drives.

What you actually see

• The turquoise reservoir - bright water held between coloured desert hills.
• The afternoon wind - the reliable thermal that fills the lake with sails.
• The board scene - windsurf and kite hire, schools and camps in Rodeo.
• The Iglesia valley - dry mountain country with hot springs nearby.

When to go

October to April is the wind season, with the strongest and most consistent conditions from November to March. Winter is calm and cold, and most operators close. Mornings are for swimming, afternoons for sailing.

Honest expectations

The wind that makes the place also makes it uncomfortable for anyone not on the water, with dust and constant noise from mid-afternoon. Rodeo is small with limited services. Beginners need lessons; the conditions are strong rather than gentle.

Nearby

Pismanta hot springs lie in the same valley; the road north climbs toward the Agua Negra pass.