Antofagasta de la Sierra

Antofagasta de la Sierra is a village of a few hundred people at around 3,400 metres in the far northwest of Catamarca, set in a basin of black lava and pale salt that is among the most volcanic landscapes in Argentina. Around it stand cinder cones, the dark flows of the Antofagasta volcano, dunes of fine white pumice, and shallow lagoons where three species of flamingo feed, most notably at Laguna Grande, a Ramsar site holding one of the largest populations of James's flamingo in the world. Archaeology is everywhere: rock art, terraces and pre-Hispanic sites record thousands of years of settlement in this harsh basin. The village is the base for the region's circuits, including the pumice field and the Galán caldera, and it offers simple lodging and food.

What you actually see

• The volcanic cones - black cinder cones and lava fields around the basin.
• Laguna Grande - the flamingo lagoon with thousands of birds in season.
• The dunes and salt flats - pale pumice sand against dark rock.
• The rock art - pre-Hispanic petroglyphs at sites near the village.

When to go

April to November, when tracks are firm; summer rain cuts the road for days at a time. Flamingo numbers peak in the warmer months, a trade-off with road conditions. Nights are far below freezing for much of the year.

Honest expectations

Getting here is a full day of driving from Belén on rough road with no fuel for long stretches, so trips need planning and spare supplies. Lodging is basic and food limited. The altitude affects most visitors, and phone signal is patchy at best.

Nearby

Campo de Piedra Pómez and the Galán caldera lie on circuits from the village; Belén is far south.