Qifqi

Qifqi is a Gjirokastra dish and is made essentially nowhere else: cooked rice mixed with beaten egg, a large quantity of chopped mint, and seasoning, formed into balls and cooked in a heavy pan with hemispherical hollows, so each ball browns evenly and holds together. They are served hot, several to a plate, as a starter or a light meal, sometimes with yoghurt. The pan is specific to the dish and the technique requires the mixture to be at the right consistency, which is why it stays a local speciality rather than spreading. The mint is the dominant flavour and the quantity used is much larger than a visitor expects. Restaurants in the old town all serve it and each claims the best version.

What you actually see

• Rice balls in a hollowed pan - the specific pan the dish requires.
• A large quantity of mint - the dominant flavour in the mixture.
• Served hot with yoghurt - the standard accompaniment.
• Made only in Gjirokastra - the dish that has not spread.

When to go

Year round. One hour. Lunch or dinner in the old town restaurants. It is a starter rather than a main and is usually shared.

Honest expectations

It is simple and some visitors find it plain. The mint is strong and dominates. Quality depends entirely on the kitchen and reheated qifqi is poor. It is served almost exclusively in Gjirokastra.

Nearby

The Gjirokastra bazaar and old town are where it is served.