Kalinjot Olives of Vlora

Kalinjot, also called Kalinjoti or Vlora olive, is the most widely planted olive variety in Albania and accounts for a large share of the national crop, grown above all on the hills behind Vlora and along the southern coast, where old trees stand on terraces that in places go back centuries. It is a dual-purpose variety used both for oil, which is green and quite bitter when fresh, and for curing as a table olive. The harvest runs from October into December and is done largely by hand and by beating, with presses in the villages working through the season. Some mills take visitors during the harvest, and oil is sold directly from producers along the coast road, which is the way most of it changes hands.

What you actually see

• Terraced groves behind Vlora - old trees on the hillsides above the coast.
• The autumn harvest - hand picking and beating from October.
• Village presses working - mills running through the season.
• Direct sale from producers - oil sold along the coast road.

When to go

October to December for the harvest and the pressing, which is when there is something to see; oil and table olives are sold year round. Half a day. Mill visits need arranging locally.

Honest expectations

There is no visitor infrastructure and mill visits depend on the producer's willingness. Oil sold at the roadside is unlabelled and quality varies enormously. Outside the harvest there is little to see beyond trees. Groves are private.

Nearby

Vlora is on the coast below; the Riviera runs south.