The Albanian Riviera and Ksamil

The Albanian Riviera, along the southern Ionian coast, is one of the Mediterranean's last affordable secrets, a stunning stretch of turquoise sea, white pebble beaches and hidden coves backed by dramatic mountains. Once isolated and undeveloped, it has beautiful, low-key beach villages like Dhermi and Himara, a spectacular coastal drive over the Llogara Pass, and, near the town of Sarande, the small, tropical-looking islands of Ksamil, whose clear turquoise shallows and white sands are among the most beautiful on the coast.

What you actually see

• Ksamil - the small islands and turquoise shallows.
• The beach villages - Dhermi, Himara and the coves.
• The Llogara Pass - the spectacular coastal mountain drive.
• The Blue Eye - the mesmerising deep-blue spring inland.

When to go

June to September for warm weather and swimming; July and August are the busiest and hottest, while June and September are pleasant and quieter. The sea is warm from late spring, and the coastal drive is spectacular in clear weather.

Honest expectations

It has become far more popular and developed in recent years, so the once-secret coast can be crowded and, at Ksamil especially, packed with beach clubs and sunbeds in peak summer; the shoulder seasons and quieter villages are better. The winding coastal roads are slow. It remains beautiful and more affordable than Greece or Croatia across the water, a rising star.

Nearby

Butrint, Gjirokaster and, across the water, the Greek island of Corfu are within reach.