The Thermal Springs of Salto and Paysandú

Drilling for oil in the western departments in the 1940s found no oil but hit hot water instead, from the same deep aquifer that underlies a large part of South America, and the region has been built around it since. Termas del Daymán near Salto is the busiest, a complex of pools at varying temperatures with hotels and cabins around it. Termas del Arapey is quieter and set in parkland. Guaviyú and Almirón in Paysandú department are smaller again. The water emerges hot and mineralised, and the culture around it is thoroughly domestic: Uruguayan and Argentine families on holiday, thermos flasks of mate on the poolside, and very few foreign visitors.

What you actually see

• Termas del Daymán - the largest complex, with a range of pool temperatures.
• Termas del Arapey - quieter thermal park in wooded grounds.
• Guaviyú and Almirón - smaller, more local complexes in Paysandú.
• Salto Grande dam - the enormous hydroelectric project on the river.

When to go

April to October, when the contrast between cool air and hot water is the point. Summer visits are less appealing since the region is very hot. Uruguayan and Argentine school holidays fill the complexes.

Honest expectations

These are family water parks with thermal water rather than European-style spas, and visitors expecting quiet wellness will find slides, snack bars and children. Facilities vary from well kept to dated. The region is a long way from Montevideo with little else to see, so it works as a destination rather than a stop.

Nearby

Salto is the regional city; the Argentine city of Concordia lies across the river.