Speyside Whisky Region

Speyside is a defined whisky region in the northeast, covering Moray and the lower Spey valley, and it holds more working malt distilleries than the rest of Scotland put together, most of them a short drive from Dufftown, Rothes, Aberlour and Craigellachie. The style is generally lighter and sweeter than the peated malts of Islay, built on barley, clear water and long fermentation, though there are exceptions in every direction. A signed Malt Whisky Trail links a handful of distilleries with a working cooperage, where coopers rebuild oak casks by hand at piece rates and the noise is considerable. The Spirit of Speyside festival fills the region for a few days each spring.

What to look for

• The Dufftown cluster - several distilleries within walking distance of one small town.
• The Speyside Cooperage - coopers rebuilding oak casks by hand, viewed from a gallery.
• Craigellachie Bridge - Telford's iron span of 1814 over the Spey.
• The Speyside Way - a long-distance path following the river past the distilleries.

When to go

May to September for the weather, the river and full tour timetables; the Spirit of Speyside festival falls around late April or early May and books out. Some distilleries close for a summer silent season, so check before driving. Winter tours run reduced and a few sites shut entirely. Two full days is the minimum to see anything properly.

What to expect

Scotland's drink-drive limit is low and enforcement is real, so somebody sober has to drive or you take a tour bus. Tastings are often handed over as a take-home dram for that reason. Tour prices have climbed steeply and the premium experiences are eye-watering. Distilleries look much alike after the third, and photography is banned inside most of them.

Nearby

The Moray coast fishing villages, the ruins of Elgin Cathedral and the Cairngorms to the south.