Testi Kebab

Testi kebabı is Cappadocia's dish and it depends on the region's other trade: the pot comes from Avanos. Cubed lamb or beef is packed into a narrow-necked clay testi with onion, pepper, tomato, garlic and butter, the mouth is sealed with dough or foil, and the pot goes into a wood-fired oven for two or three hours, so the meat cooks in its own steam with nothing escaping. It arrives at the table still sealed and is opened in front of you - the theatrical version is a swing with the back of a knife or a small hammer to crack the pot around its middle, sometimes with the pot set alight first, and the contents are tipped onto the plate. Some restaurants use reusable pots with a lid, which is less dramatic and less wasteful. It needs long cooking, so many places want the order a few hours ahead or serve it only in the evening, and it is worth calling to check.

What's there

• The sealed pot - the clay testi arriving unopened.
• The cracking - the pot broken at the table.
• The Avanos clay - the local pottery the dish depends on.
• The stew - meat cooked in its own steam with vegetables.

When to go

Year-round, in the evening. Call ahead where you can - the dish takes hours and some restaurants require notice.

What to expect

It is the priciest thing on most menus and portions vary. Quality ranges widely, and tourist restaurants sometimes reheat pre-made pots. The theatrics can be more impressive than the stew.

Nearby

Avanos, where the pots are made, is a short drive; Göreme and Ürgüp have the greatest concentration of restaurants.