Black Sea Hazelnut Harvest

Turkey grows the large majority of the world's hazelnuts, and most of that comes from the steep coastal hills between Ordu and Giresun - slopes of thirty degrees and more, terraced and planted in clumps, far too steep for machinery, so the crop is picked by hand. Through August the orchards fill with workers, many of them seasonal migrants who travel from the south-east and live in temporary camps for the harvest, and the nuts are gathered, spread on tarpaulins and on any flat surface including village roads and rooftops to dry in the sun, then cracked and graded. Giresun's Tombul variety is the benchmark and carries a geographical indication. The trade dominates the regional economy, and prices set at the start of the season are a national news story. Working conditions in the harvest, particularly for migrant families, have been documented as a serious labour issue by Turkish and international organisations.

Highlights

• The terraced orchards - hazelnut clumps on very steep slopes.
• The hand picking - workers across the hills through August.
• The drying - nuts spread on tarpaulins, roofs and roadsides.
• The village roads - drying floors as much as thoroughfares.

When to go

August, when the harvest is under way. The orchards are green year-round but the work - which is the thing to see - happens in that month.

Things to know

Orchards are private working farms - watch from the road and ask before photographing people. Labour conditions in the harvest are a documented concern, not a picturesque detail. Roads through the hills are narrow and busy in season.

Nearby

Ordu and its cable car are on the coast; Giresun and its island are east.