Adatepe

Adatepe sits a few kilometres up the slope from the coast at Küçükkuyu, a village of stone houses with wooden shutters along narrow lanes, largely abandoned by the 1980s and then bought up and restored - it is now a mix of guesthouses, cafés and second homes, handsome and self-consciously so. Olives are the trade: the slopes below are dense with groves, and the Adatepe olive oil museum, in a converted soap factory on the coast road, covers pressing, soap-making and the history of the crop, with a shop that has done much to spread the village's name. Above the village on a rocky outcrop is the Zeus Altar, a flat platform of rock with steps cut into it, traditionally the spot from which Zeus watched the fighting at Troy in the Iliad; whatever its actual antiquity, the view from it takes in the whole gulf, the olive slopes and Lesbos across the water. The Mount Ida trails start from behind the village.

What you actually see

• The stone lanes - restored village houses and shuttered windows.
• The Zeus Altar - the cut rock platform above the village.
• The olive oil museum - the converted factory on the coast road.
• The gulf view - olive slopes down to the sea and Lesbos beyond.

When to go

April to June and September to November; the olive harvest from late October gives the village its working season. Weekdays are quiet, weekends busy.

Honest expectations

It is small and restored for visitors - handsome rather than authentic, and priced accordingly. The lanes are steep cobbles. A car is needed; public transport reaches the coast, not the village.

Nearby

Assos is along the coast to the north-west; the Mount Ida trails and waterfalls are above.