Wat Phu Khao Thong

Phu Khao Thong means golden mount, and the chedi has a mixed parentage. King Bayinnaung of Burma began a Mon-style stupa here in 1569 after taking Ayutthaya, to mark the victory; when the Siamese recovered the city, King Naresuan is credited with rebuilding it in Thai style on the Burmese base, and it was raised further under Rama IV in the nineteenth century. The result is around eighty metres tall, white, standing alone in flat rice country with nothing near it, so it is visible from a long way off and the approach across the fields is much of the effect. A stair climbs the base to a terrace with a view over the plain toward the city. A statue of Naresuan on horseback with fighting cocks stands in the grounds - the king is associated with cockfighting from his years as a hostage in Burma. It is free, quiet and usually has few people.

What you actually see

• The white chedi - around eighty metres, alone in flat rice country.
• The mixed origin - Burmese base of 1569, Thai rebuilding above it.
• The terrace - a stair climb to a view over the plain toward Ayutthaya.
• The Naresuan statue - the king on horseback with fighting cocks.

When to go

November to February. Early morning or late afternoon for the light across the fields and to avoid the heat on the unshaded stair.

Honest expectations

The stair is steep and completely unshaded. Nothing else at the site beyond the chedi and the statue. Free with donation boxes. It is a short stop, usually combined with an Ayutthaya circuit.

Nearby

The Ayutthaya historical park is south-east; the Elephant Kraal is east.