Than Sadet Waterfall

Than Sadet runs down a granite valley on the eastern side of Ko Phangan in a series of cascades and pools among large boulders. Rama V visited in the 1880s and returned repeatedly, and Rama VI and Rama VII came after him; all three had their royal cyphers carved into the rocks beside the stream, and those initials are still there and are the reason the area was protected. Than Sadet means the royal stream. The waterfall is now inside Than Sadet-Ko Phangan National Park. Pools along the stream are swimmable and the walk up alongside is short but involves scrambling on boulders that are slick where wet. The access road from the main island road is steep, rough and has defeated a great many rented scooters - taxis and four-wheel drives use it routinely and ordinary bikes often should not. Flow is seasonal, strongest after the October to December rains.

What you actually see

• The royal cyphers - initials of Rama V, VI and VII carved into the boulders.
• The cascades - pools and drops down a granite valley.
• The swimming pools - along the stream, cold and clear in season.
• The national park - protecting the eastern side of the island.

When to go

October to December for flow; December to April for the driest weather. The road is worst after rain. Weekdays are quieter than the Ko Phangan party calendar allows for.

Honest expectations

The access road is steep and rough and scooter accidents on it are common - take a taxi or a proper vehicle. Boulders around the pools are slippery. Much reduced flow in the dry season. Foreign entry fees are higher than Thai.

Nearby

Than Sadet beach is below; Bottle Beach is north and Thong Sala west.