Muay Thai Stadium Nights

Muay Thai is the national sport and it is not a tourist show at the main stadiums - these are professional cards with ranked fighters, gambling, and an audience that is there for the sport. Two venues matter in Bangkok: Rajadamnern, opened in 1945, and Lumpinee, which moved from its old Rama IV site to Ram Intra in 2014. A card runs eight to ten bouts over an evening, building from young fighters to the main event. Each bout opens with the wai khru ram muay, a slow ritual dance in which fighters pay respect to teachers and seal the ring, performed to a live band of oboe, drums and cymbals whose tempo rises with the fighting. The betting section is loud and continuous and is a substantial part of the atmosphere. Foreign visitors are charged considerably more than Thais and are usually seated ringside, away from the betting crowd, which is worth knowing.

What you actually see

• The wai khru ram muay - the ritual dance opening every bout.
• The live band - oboe, drums and cymbals following the pace of the fight.
• The betting section - continuous shouted wagering through the card.
• The card structure - eight to ten bouts building to the main event.

When to go

Any time of year; Rajadamnern and Lumpinee run on fixed nights of the week - check the schedule. Cards start in the early evening and run several hours.

Honest expectations

Foreign ticket prices are several times the Thai price and are non-negotiable. Ringside seating separates visitors from the betting crowd, which is where the atmosphere is. Touts outside sell overpriced tickets - buy at the box office. It is a combat sport and injuries happen.

Nearby

Rajadamnern is near Khao San and the old city; Lumpinee is well out on Ram Intra.